“Change your point of view. Then see what is the world.”
Akhhi
Many years ago I made my first trip to Venezia. My most vivid memory I have of that inaugural visit was stepping out of the Santa Lucia train station and onto the promenade in front of the Canal Grande. I remember thinking, “I could never have imagined a view more stunning this.” Pastel colored buildings rising straight out of the water, sparkling teak water taxis, black-lacquered gondolas and the infamous gondolieri with their red accented shirts and straw hats. It was a moment that I will never forget. That day there was not a better view of Venezia.
I have made several trips to Venezia since then. Although it never failed to impress me, a little bit of that initial magic tarnished. Perhaps it was the thousands of tourists crowding the streets and bridges, sweltering summer visits and a feeling that unrelenting tourism has left an unsavory mark on the city. It has always been a balancing act for Venezia–managing the fragility of timeless beauty, the economic bounty from tourism and the insatiable appetites of its visitors.
I once again had the chance to return to Venezia last week, but this time with a different intent. With the opening of Italia to its people, it felt like it was time for a better view of Venezia. I thought I would tell you about my explorations and share with you many of the photos I took while I was there. I hope you experience some of the beauty, magic and mystery of Venezia through my eyes as I did this past week.
The Sestieri
There are six sestieri (districts) in Venezia: Dorsoduro, San Marco, San Polo, Castelo, Cannaregio and Santa Croce. San Marco, San Polo and Castello are the most visited by tourists, including the sights such as Piazza San Marco, Basilica di San Marco, and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace). San Polo encompasses the iconic Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) and a good portion of the Canal Grande. Castelo is tucked away to the east of the main area, and encompasses the largest green space in the city, Giardini della Biennial.
This visit, there were no overflowing streets or crowded bridges to climb. It seemed as if each sestiere was laid open to be rediscovered and deliver a different view of Venezia. I made it a point to visit all six sestieri during my stay, so that I could compare and contrast each, and discover a perspective of Venezia and the Veneziani. It also forced me to see something different. Many of my past visits were with special people who are no longer in my daily life. Going there alone and seeing different places would allow me to seek out emotional “safe zones.” A different view of Venezia would take me to places where nostalgia wouldn’t find me.
Sestiere Dorsoduro
A friend of mine recommended I stay in Dorsoduro. It is a lesser visited but charming sestiere just off the beaten path for tourists. Upon arriving, it was obvious that this was more like a neighborhood of locals living their daily lives frequenting local businesses in the area. I immediately was happy with my decision to choose this sestiere and I quickly went about integrating into the scene. Every day I would find myself at the main square, Campo San Barnaba, having a morning cappuccino or afternoon Campari Spritz exchanging friendly greetings with the same people day in and day out.
This was also the first trip for Sofia, my new Pekingese puppy. She was attracting all sorts of people to fawn over her fluffy coat and curious personality. She seemed to find her voice in Venezia and became quite the showgirl for the locals. I can’t tell you how many times I heard; “Che bella! Ma, stupenda! Che carina! Complimenti! Posso fare un foto?” She soon became known in Campo San Barnaba as “la palla di pelo” or “the ball of fur.” She made integrating into the neighborhood much easier. Local shop owners greeted both of us each day, and Sofia took full advantage of the attention. Being a temporary resident of Dorsoduro gave me a better view of Venezia. It showed me how people can live serenely in one of the most visited destinations in the world.
Giudecca
Also part of Dorsoduro is the island of Giudecca. It has a quiet residential feel, but incredible views of the main islands of Venezia. There are a number of interesting churches, the most predominant being Chiesa del Santissimo Redentore, built in the 16th century. The church was an offering of thanks to God for delivering Venezia from a plague that decimated 25-30% of the population in 1575-1576.
I had my own Da Vinci Code moment when I found this symbol on a cross at the Chiesa del Santissimo Redentore in Giudecca. The church volunteer mysteriously whispered under her breath that this was a pagan symbol. She told me to seek out a sister symbol at Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena in sestiere Cannaregio. As it turns out, they are believed to be Masonic in nature tied to the artisans who built both churches.
Sestiere Canareggio
After finding Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena, I had a chance to spend some time strolling the neighborhoods of Canareggio. One of the most notable areas of this sestiere is the the Jewish Ghetto. Beginning in 1516, the Jewish population of Venezia was forced to live away from the rest of the city. In the late 1700s, the French Army led by Napoleon Bonaparte’s, dissolved the Veneziani government. That was when Canareggio rejoined the rest of Venezia. This area is still home to the Jewish community in Venezia.
Also in Canareggio, I stumbled upon the place of death of Richard Wagner, the famous German composer. This district had a feeling that you would find history hiding around every corner.
Sestieri San Marco and San Polo
A trip to Venezia isn’t complete without a visit to Piazza San Marco. I found myself there once again gazing up at the towering Campanile di San Marco (the infamous bell tower) and the expansive piazza which surrounds it. Here you will also find the Basilica di San Marco, which is a magnificent example of Italo-Byzantine architecture originally constructed in the 11th century and then augmented several times after. Finally, the grand dame of attractions, the impressive Palazzo Ducale which offers a look into the political and government history of Venezia from the 12th century until the fall of Venezia in 1797 to the French.
Usually this area is where your patience will go on full-tilt with the volume of tourists, but on this visit, there was none of that. There were definitely languages representing Italia, Francia, Germania and Spagna. But what was apparently absent, was the English language. Usually this is where you’ll run into hundreds of Karens, Bobs, and Susans taking photos of pigeons on their heads or eating gelato in their Lululemon yoga pants. But this visit to Piazza San Marco was strange, without a word of English among the crowds. It was a different view of Venezia that afternoon.
Sestiere Castello
On the water taxi ride over to Lido di Venezia, I decided to take a diversion and exit at the Castello stop to visit the Giardini della Biennale. This is the site of the world-famous international art exhibition that began in 1895 and happens every two-years. Participating countries from all over the world set up pavilions to showcase their breakthrough artists. In 2019 over 600,000 visitors attended over a period of six months. You can read all about the history and the numerous activities of La Biennale di Venezia here.
The shade from the gardens were a welcome respite from the heat and I captured several photos of the garden where sculptures were. It seemed every sculpture was missing something, as the sledgehammer of time took arms, legs, faces, breasts and penises. Not one statue was fully intact, but still worth the photos.
Lido di Venezia
Lido di Venezia is the place to be for a perfect day at the beach. During the summer people flock to its shops, bars and restaurants. Unlike the main part of Venezia, Lido has a modern and upscale feel. You will find contemporary architecture mixed among centuries-old grand palazzos. The crowd at night is young, energetic and definitely looking for a place to unwind. It was definitely a different view of Venezia.
After a full five days, I returned last weekend to Torino. However, a part of me stayed behind in Venezia. I knew this trip would be different and that I would come away with something special. It certainly was a gift to experience this city with the locals and only a few tourists like myself. A rare moment in time when the Italiani had taken back their city, if only for a summer. I left wanting to return soon. It was the perfect time for a different view of Venezia.
As a final note during these strange times, if there’s a place that always brings you joy, go to it! Find a place that makes you happy and gives you pause to help expand your perspective. Some of my favorite places are just a short walk away. Thanks for following my journey at The Spaghetti Diaries. If you liked what you read, please share it on your social media pages. If you’re not following me yet, please subscribe below and you’ll receive all of my future posts.